On the hills above Apia, Samoa sits the expansive Robert Louis Stevenson Museum. The museum is the restored home built by the famous Scottish author in 1890. After traveling the Pacific, Stevenson sought refuge from his tuberculosis in beautiful Samoa. The grounds surrounding the sprawling home are extensive botanical gardens, and the neighboring hike up Mt. Vaea to Stevenson’s grave provides a stunning look down to Apia harbor.
A Visit to the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum
From the center of Apia, the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum is just under 5 km away, along Cross Island Road. If you don’t have a rental car, a taxi ride up the hill from Apia will be between $7 and 10 Tala, depending on the driver.
Robert Louis Stevenson Museum hours:
- Monday – Friday: 9:00 AM to 3:30 PM
- Saturday: 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM.
Admission is 20 Tala/adult and 10 Tala/child.
See More: Planning your Flights to Samoa
The (Brief) History of RLS in Samoa
Looking to escape the cold, dry winter air of the Americas and Europe, Stevenson set sail in the late 1880’s for a tour of the Pacific. The warm, humid air of the tropics gave him relief from his tuberculosis. Stevenson first stopped in Apia, Samoa in December, 1889 and returned in 1890 to live permanently.
A large plot of land in the village of Vailima, above Apia, was purchased. Here Stevenson built his beautiful mansion with imported timbers and fancy finishing touches. Robert Louis Stevenson became a trusted friend and political advisor to the Samoans, and was named “Tusitala” (Teller of Tales in Samoan). He continued to write, and authored several more books.
Stevenson lived in Vailima until December 1894, when he passed away of a suspected brain hemorrhage. Samoans kept watch over their beloved Tusitala until a grave was prepared, at the summit of nearby Mt. Vaea. Both Samoans and European officials carried Stevenson’s body on their shoulders up to the steep summit grave.
As requested by Stevenson, his poem Requiem was inscribed on one side of the grave. The Samoan translation is on the other.
“Under the wide and starry sky,
Dig the grave and let me lie
Glad did I live and gladly die,
And I laid me down with a will
This be the verse you grave for me,
Here he lies where he longed to be
Home is the sailor home from sea,
And the hunter home from the hill.”
Museum Tour
The guided tour around the museum is chock full of information about Robert Louis Stevenson’s life history both before and during his time in Samoa. While we knew of him as the author of Treasure Island and Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, we learned about Stevenson’s travels throughout the Pacific. So many details about his family and relocation to Samoa are shared by the knowledgeable tour guides.
The history of his home, Villa Vailima, is a prominent topic during the tour. Stevenson built his home in 1890, using only the finest imported timbers. Vailima has passed hands a number of times since Stevenson’s death, finally becoming a museum in 1994.
The Robert Louis Stevenson Museum has restored Villa Vailima to mimic the look and furnishings of when Mr. Stevenson was alive. Some details are original, but many are replicas from the time period. The details of each room were fascinating, with fun tidbits shared throughout. We learned Vailima has the only two fireplaces in all of Samoa. Built specifically for Stevenson’s Scottish mother, but never needed in the Samoan temperatures.
Our favorite room was Stevenson’s study, with wallpaper made out of tapa. Tapa is a traditional Samoan bark cloth that is extremely labor intensive to both pound flat and decorate. It was just incredible to think of the time involved with covering the walls in tapa.
Botanical Gardens
The 30 acres surrounding the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum make up the Vailima Botanical Garden. The gardens are filled with both gorgeous ornamentals and native Samoan plant species.
Mt Vaea Hike
Trails leading up to the top of Mt. Vaea start next to the museum. After a few minutes, the trail forks and gives two different options for trekking to the summit. One route is shorter and steeper, with the second longer and more gradual.
Our family chose sweating it out on the steeper path! The trail was generally a steady uphill for 0.8 km, with a few level sections of the trail to catch your breath. The majority of the trail is under heavy tree canopy that provides lovely shade for the Samoan heat. There are a few nice clearings along the way offering beautiful views. The more gradual trail to the summit is listed as 2.4 km from the fork to the top.
The summit of Mt. Vaea is dominated by Robert Louis Stevenson’s grave, and the poetic inscriptions that are a tribute to his contribution to Samoa. There is a grassy area with welcomed shade after the hot trip up the trails. The views from the edge of the summit clearing show off Apia, the harbor, and the extinct volcanoes surrounding the capital city.
Are you a Robert Louis Stevenson Fan?
Did you have any idea that Apia is home to such a gem? The Robert Louis Stevenson Museum was such a lovely surprise for us. We were presented with so much rich history about his life, home, and family. The botanical gardens and Mt. Vaea hike were a wonderful way to create a half day experience at the museum.
Make sure to add a stop to the RLS Museum when you are looking for things to do in Samoa! Looking for other Apia attractions? Our Guide to Apia, Samoa includes local spots to visit, as well as dining and accommodation suggestions. Or if you’re spending time outside of Apia, take a look our favorite spots around the island of Upolu.
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